First published: 15/08/2024
Throughout history, the pursuit of the "perfect" body has been a relentless, often torturous endeavour. From the restrictive corsets of the Victorian era to the invasive plastic surgeries of the 20th century, society's standards of beauty have continually shifted, yet one constant remains: the elusive and often unattainable ideal of physical perfection. Virginia Nicholson's new book, All The Rage: Power, Pain, Pleasure: Stories from the Frontline of Beauty 1860-1960, delves deep into this timeless obsession, revealing the lengths to which women have gone - and continue to go - in the name of beauty.
In 1920, a 49-year-old Parisian woman who had undergone a facelift expressed her joy while simultaneously lamenting the sacrifices made for her appearance: “I would never have needed an operation if I hadn’t gone around laughing and crying over nothing all my life.” This poignant reflection underscores a central theme in Nicholson's exploration: the often harsh trade-offs women make in the pursuit of beauty. For many, the desire to meet societal standards is so overpowering that they willingly forgo life’s simplest pleasures, all in the name of maintaining a flawless appearance.
Nicholson, a respected historian of women's lives and social history, brings her extensive knowledge to bear on the subject, tracing the cultural and historical forces that have shaped the female body over the last century. Her book is not merely a chronicle of changing fashions but an exploration of the intricate relationship between women and their appearances. She examines how external pressures - from fashion to fitness, from cosmetics to surgical enhancements - have continuously contorted and manipulated women's bodies to conform to prevailing beauty ideals.
The period from 1860 to 1960, the focus of Nicholson's book, was one of profound transformation. The 1860s marked a time when women were both socially and sartorially constrained, their movements restricted by boned corsets and voluminous skirts. Yet, it was also an era of rapid industrial innovation, the birth of haute couture in Paris, and the emergence of modern photography - all of which played a pivotal role in the creation of the modern fashion industry and the standards of beauty that came with it.
Nicholson centres her narrative around seven famous women - whom she dubs "Professional Beauties" - to illustrate how these evolving ideals were embodied and perpetuated. Figures such as Princess Alexandra and Brigitte Bardot become more than just icons of their time; through Nicholson's detailed analysis, they serve as lenses through which the reader can understand the broader societal expectations placed on all women. As fashion trends oscillated - from the restrictive corsets of the 19th century to the liberating flapper dresses of the 1920s, to the bold bikini of the mid-20th century - the "ideal" female body morphed accordingly, with each era imposing its own set of demands.
One of the book's most compelling insights is the paradoxical nature of progress in the pursuit of beauty. While the conventional narrative suggests that women gained greater freedom as time and fashions evolved, Nicholson reveals a more complex truth: as more of the female body was revealed, the external scrutiny grew more intense. The pressure to conform to ever-changing beauty standards did not diminish; instead, it multiplied, infiltrating every aspect of women’s lives, from their wardrobes to their waistlines.
Even as women attained greater rights during this period - voting, higher education, and careers outside the home - their reliance on marriage for social and financial security meant that appearance remained a critical asset. As Nicholson writes, “Pretty clothes were not just for keeping warm, nor even just for status, pleasure or fashion. They were an investment, a vital downpayment.” This harsh reality left many women, particularly those of modest means, in a precarious position, constantly striving to meet impossible standards in a bid for survival.
The commercialisation of women's insecurities is another thread Nicholson meticulously unravels. The early 20th century saw the cosmetics industry push increasingly idealised standards of beauty, profiting handsomely from the anxieties they helped create. Yet, within this industry also lay opportunities for women entrepreneurs like Helena Rubinstein and Elizabeth Arden, who built empires catering to these very insecurities.
Nicholson's exploration does not shy away from the darker side of the beauty industry. From the dangerous procedures of early plastic surgery to the toxic ingredients in Victorian cosmetics, she highlights the risks women have endured in their pursuit of perfection. But within these grim realities, there are also stories of resistance. Women like Florence Harberton, who founded the Rational Dress Society in 1881, and the suffragettes, who strategically embraced feminine attire to further their cause, illustrate the ongoing struggle to redefine beauty on their terms.
As we reflect on the history of the beauty industry, Nicholson’s work holds up a mirror to our current era. Despite movements like body positivity and campaigns promoting "real beauty," we remain in thrall to the seductive and often harmful pursuit of the perfect body. In today’s world, where social media amplifies every flaw and new technologies offer increasingly extreme solutions, the question remains: Is the “perfect” body ever truly attainable?
Nicholson’s All The Rage reminds us that this pursuit, far from being a modern phenomenon, is deeply rooted in our history. And while the tools and techniques may have evolved, the underlying pressures - and the sacrifices required to meet them - remain strikingly familiar. As long as society continues to place value on an idealised form of beauty, the quest for the perfect body will persist, even as it eludes us all.
Comments